I’m a dermatologist and a little-known ingredient is the ‘gold standard skincare’ – and the best way to pick retinoids
RETINOIDS aren’t the only product you should be relying on for a youthful appearance, according to a dermatologist.
Dr. Clare Kiely shared the “gold standard” ingredient that should be a staple in every skincare routine.
Dr. Kiely is a consultant dermatologist, laser surgeon, and co-founder of The Skin Diary, in London, England.
Speaking to The U.S. Sun, she shared tips for an effective anti-aging routine.
INCREDIBLE INGREDIENTS
There are so many different skincare serums and creams to choose from, but Dr. Kiely says there are three categories she recommends most.
“I recommend antioxidants, retinoids, and peptides,” she said.
“Antioxidants protect against free radical damage from UV and environmental pollution.
And the queen of them all is L-ascorbic acid.
“L-ascorbic acid is the most potent and abundant antioxidant in the epidermis but depletes with age and UV exposure,” she said.
She called it “the gold standard in skincare,” following it the vitamin C precursor tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.”
“Robustly-researched” retinoids are next up on her list.
Despite varying in strength, even off-the-shelf versions can be beneficial.
“I recommend retinoids prescribed by a dermatologist for the best results in older skin,” she said.
Finally, those peptides.
“Peptides are amino acids, which are cellular building blocks acting as messengers in skincare,” Dr. Kiely said.
“There are lots of peptides in skincare, but don’t get bogged down on choice — they’re all good.”
The best age for using active ingredients varies but most people start to use vitamin C, retinoids, and peptides in their 30s.
BUT DON’T FORGET THIS STAPLE
Of course, SPF is necessary to wear daily for the best results from active ingredients.
Dr. Kiely said wearing sunscreen is a habit that should be introduced as a kid.
Don’t underestimate what a good skincare routine can do.
Dr. Clare Kiely
“Sunburn in kids is a real risk factor for skin cancer later in life,” she said.
“Even one blistering sunburn in childhood or adolescence more than doubles your chances of developing melanoma later in life.
“These other ingredients can’t replace SPF, you need to slap on that sun protection to get the best results from your other actives.
LEAVE IT TO THE PROS
Dr. Kiely said you can “take control of your skin” as it ages without relying on cosmetic injections.
She recommended speaking to an expert if struggling to formulate an effective skincare routine.
“Don’t underestimate what a good skincare routine can do, some of the active ingredients we use in skincare have been given quasi-pharmaceutical status in Japan,” she said.
“If you want to take it a step further or if you think you have sun-damaged skin, I would advise prescription-grade creams, which a dermatologist can advise you on.”
Dr. Kiely said it isn’t a good idea to use homemade skincare as the botanical ingredients won’t have been purified and extracted in the correct dosages.
“Cosmetic scientists have in-depth knowledge of chemistry and formulating effective skincare is complex,” she said.
“You need to think about the biochemical compatibility of the ingredients, transdermal delivery, and stability to name but a few.”
She revealed there are a range of laser treatments and light devices that can be used aside from topical products.
“IPL (intense pulsed light therapy) and BBL (broadband light laser) remain great low downtime but highly effective rejuvenation treatments,” she said.