Taste-Off: The best frozen empanadas on the market — and the terrible ones

When it comes to party food, there are few things more tempting than empanadas, half moons of savory pastry filled with spicy, salty umami goodness. They’re rich, satisfying and fun to eat.

Freshly made empanadas are best, of course, but an array of surprisingly delicious versions can be found in the freezer section of most grocery stores. There are dessert empanadas filled with pumpkin or apple in the freezer case, but for this taste test, we stuck with the savory options, leaning into beef when possible — and threw in a couple of empanada-like versions, too.

In general, frozen empanadas are made for re-heating in the oven or an air fryer. They’re available year-round, but they disappear quickly at this time of year, as they are a popular holiday food in many Latin cultures.

Great empanadas have bold, mouthwatering fillings packed with garlic, onion, peppers, herbs and spices. The filling is wrapped in tender, flaky pastry that is thick enough to contain the filling, but thin enough to complement rather than compete with the filling. Bad empanadas are disappointing inside and out.

Here’s the scoop on the most delicious pockets of savory goodness — and the empanada mistakes to avoid. Note that because the size of these pockets varies so much, we provide nutrition info for 85 grams or about 3 ounces.

Maspanadas Beef & Vegetables Empanadas

The deliciously spiced beef-vegetable filling tucked inside flaky pastry make these a delectable snack likely to disappear within minutes of being served. They are flat-out terrific in every way. 159 calories, 6 g fat, 276 mg sodium, 6 g protein. $7.99 for 7.5 ounces, seven per package at Whole Foods. (4 stars)

Trader Joe’s Empanadas De Ropa Vieja

Savory shredded beef combined with minced bell peppers and herbs explain why these tender, seasonal bites are so hard to find. They sell out fast. If you find them, grab two boxes. 200 calories, 9 g fat, 375 mg sodium, 6 g protein. $5.99 for 9.6 ounces, eight per package. (3½ stars)

Good & Gather Beef & Jalapeño Mini Empanadas

Spicy, umami-rich beef wrapped in crispy pastry makes for a memorable mouthful. The filling is a bit too pureed, but these are a good choice for those who like a little spice. 298 calories, 20 g fat, 276 mg sodium, 7 g protein. $5.99 for 5.6 ounces, eight per package at Target. (3½ stars)

Del Corazon Beef Empanadas

These large pockets filled with cumin-spiked ground beef, onions, potato and peppers could use a few more flavor notes, but they are entirely enjoyable. 168 calories, 5 g fat, 323 mg sodium, 7 g protein. $6.49 for 7.5 ounces, three per package at Safeway. (3 stars)

Tres Latin Foods Ancho Beef & Mozzarella Pupusas

While not exactly an empanada, these masa-wrapped rounds are a welcome bite for those who love tamales. The masa is a bit dry, but the ground beef is flavorful. These would be best heated in a skillet. 198 calories, 11 g fat, 2,633 mg sodium (this seems to be a label error), 7 g protein. $7.39 for 10 ounces, four per package at Whole Foods. (2½ stars)

Crav’n Mini Beef Empanadas

The filling inside these empanadas is tasty, but something went wrong with the pastry. It’s so tough, the empanadas need to be ripped apart to eat — which is not difficult to do, because they burst open when baked. 252 calories, 11 g fat, 364 mg sodium, 12 g protein. $4.49 for 8 ounces, 10 per package at FoodMaxx. (2 stars)

BetterGoods Beef Bulgogi Empanadas

Put this flavorful, sweet-savory Korean-style filling inside a better crust, and it would be a big win. Sadly, the crust is chewy, but not in a good way. 200 calories, 7.5 g fat, 588 mg sodium, 7.5 g protein. $5.97 for 9.6 ounces, 8 per package at Walmart. (2 stars)

Snow Days Supreme Taco Bites

OK, they’re called “taco bites,” but they’re empanada shaped. Unfortunately, these pricey half-moons made with cassava flour taste like they’re filled with bean dip. Edible, but not great. 230 calories, 11 g fat, 480 mg sodium, 8 g protein. $9.49 for 6 ounces, 10 per package at Whole Foods. (1½ stars)

Brazi Bites Chicken & Cheese Empanadas

These puffy white rectangles show promise, but the bready pastry is doughy, and the filling is far too pasty. 230 calories, 11 g fat, 430 mg sodium, 11 g protein. $6.48 for 10 ounces, 10 per package at Raley’s. (1 star)

365 Whole Foods Corn & Cheese Empanadas

The only thing right about these snacks is the kick of chipotle. The pastry is dry and brittle, and the filling consists of a few kernels of corn — and no trace of cheese. 202 calories, 7 g fat, 372 mg sodium, 5 g protein. $5.99 for 8.5 ounces, 12 per package. (½ a star)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.