Neely experiments with science of winemaking
Portola Valley winery releases carbonic chardonnay.
When Virginia Orozco, assistant winemaker at Neely Wines in Portola Valley, approached Neely winemaker Shalini Sekhar with the idea of making a carbonic chardonnay, she was afraid Sekhar might think, “Oh no, not an orange wine!” But the experiment worked so well they’re already planning on doing more this coming harvest.
Orozco, who grew up in Redlands and earned a bachelor’s degree in oenology from Fresno State, joined the mostly female-powered Neely team in 2021. After reading about wineries in the Adelaide Hills of Australia making carbonic chardonnay, she decided to try it for herself.
Carbonic reds are made by throwing grape clusters in a tank or barrel, gassing the vessel with CO2 and then sealing it.
During carbonic maceration, natural grape enzymes produce alcohol, along with the bright aromas and flavors associated with the process. When that alcohol level reaches 2%, the berries burst, and yeast take over the fermentation process.
Harvesting the last of the chardonnay last October from the Leoncita block of the Sausal Creek Vineyard, the newest planting on the Neely property in Portola Valley, Orozco placed the whole clusters in a macrobin, flooded it with CO2 pellets and sealed it tight. After seven days, she pressed off the juice and fermented it dry. What resulted is the 2023 Leoncita Nouveau Chardonnay, a fantastically juicy chardonnay that clocks in at 11.5% alcohol yet is light and refreshing. Call this one a success. Also call it very limited and available to club only.
Orozco is an artist at heart and created an image of the green-eyed mountain lioness for which the Leoncita block is named for the label of this wine.
For 2023, Sekhar and Orozco made three additional chardonnays from the Leoncita block, named for the mountain lion that vineyard manager Lucy Neely spotted there in 2018, right after the experimental vineyard was planted. A 2023 Unoaked Leoncita Block Chardonnay is currently available. Neely continues to make oak-driven chardonnays from the legacy blocks of the Spring Ridge Vineyard, including Bee Block, Holly’s Hill and Amphitheater.
Neely is open for tasting Tuesday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-5:30 p.m., with food options by preorder. No outside food. Make reservations at https://www.neelywine.com/visit.
Rhys Vineyards, on Skyline Boulevard in Los Gatos, is now open for tastings by appointment Tuesdays through Saturdays. Three tasting slots are offered, at 10 a.m., 1 p.m. and 3 p.m.; reservations are by appointment only for parties of up to eight. Tastings are $95 per person inside the beautiful home on the property, with canyon views to the east, where you can spy the vineyards of both Ridge and Mount Eden in the distance. No picnics, please. Reservations are required to https://members.rhysvineyards.com/visit.
The next Passport Day in the Santa Cruz Mountains is May 18, at participating wineries. Tickets are $90, or $150 for a two-pack, at https://winesofthesantacruzmountains.com/events/passport.
The next dinner in the Santa Cruz Mountains Wineries Association’s Taste our Terroir series is set for June 22 at Storrs Winery in Corralitos. Wineries participating include Storrs Winery and Vineyards, Big Basin Vineyards, Wrights Station Winery and Vineyards, Lago Lomita Vineyards, Rosscienda Vineyard and Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyards. Tickets are $175 at https://winesofthesantacruzmountains.com/events/june22totstorrs.
The Half Moon Bay Wine and Jazz Festival takes place in downtown Half Moon Bay on June 1, noon-5 p.m., featuring musicians Jahari Stampley, Dr. Kim Nalley, Howard Wiley, Michela Marino Lerman and Ayo Brame. https://hmbwineandjazzfest.com
Kings Mountain Vineyards hosts a 2023 Boathouse Pinot Noir Rosé release party at the Tasting House in Los Gatos June 22, 1-3 p.m. Taste four Santa Cruz Mountains wines from the Woodside winery, including their first-ever rosé, made by legendary vintner Nate Kandler of Thomas Fogarty and Precedent. Tickets are $50 at https://www.tastinghouse.com/events and include a bottle of this limited-edition wine.