Cruising Corsica and Sardinia by yacht

Guy Malpas cruises Corsica, Sardinia and Italy on his Hallberg-Rassy’s inaugural cruise

Cruising the Mediterranean in my own yacht has always been a dream, and it finally became a reality in 2023, with the June delivery of a new Hallberg-Rassy 372 in Ellös, Sweden. The potential was there – so let’s make it happen!

I arrived early at the Hallberg-Rassy yard in Ellös and boarded Palaemon III for the first time. It was like being introduced to a new life-long partner. We had a brief walk through the yacht, unpacked our things and then we were off.

With the sails raised in a light breeze, we headed north for Norway. Our route was through ‘the best of the best’ of Sweden – weaving between small islets, gorgeous wooden houses coloured in russet reds and mustard yellows, through narrow channels up into Norway.

After a brief interlude in Norway, we returned south to Sweden for our night stop at Havstenssund. With the wharf full, we moored alongside the gorgeous ketch Athena, before dining on local herring, red onion, egg and fennel on a sun-drenched balcony, with a much-desired beer in hand.

After returning to Ellös, Palaemon III was lifted and trucked to Port Grimaud in France. After recommissioning Palaemon, I set off sailing solo to Cannes. Tacking up the Golfe de Saint-Tropez in glorious sunshine was a highlight – just me, myself and my yacht!

We passed the rugged Esterel mountains before preparing for what would be my first solo, reverse mooring in a hectic late afternoon at Cannes Vieux Port. I managed it without any scratches – so far so good!

A true highlight was sharing my Med sailing with friends. Two days after the ‘necessary’ launch party, we departed Cannes for Antibes, in a stiff Force 5-7 westerly, with gusts up to 42 knots. We made steady progress to Antibes, where I requested assistance from the capitainerie dinghy to moor in the prevailing winds. I have an aviation background and there’s no pride when it comes to safety.

The next day we set sail with additional friends for Villefranche-sur-Mer, then Monaco, where, as guests of the Yacht Club de Monaco, we berthed right outside the imposing Norman Foster-designed clubhouse, where the champagne flowed.

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The next leg was planned to Calvi on Corsica, but with a strong westerly, we headed to Bastia instead. We enjoyed a lovely day motoring in the sunshine where we saw dolphins and a whale. As forecast, the evening brought stronger winds up to 20 knots, with the sea becoming lumpy with a consistent rolling swell.

Reefs installed early and safety briefs completed, we ploughed on in full moonlight making the sea state easier to read.

Progress on the 120-mile leg to Bastia was quick, resulting in us loitering outside the harbour before opening time. Voyaging down the east coast of Corsica was easy sailing, gentle scenery and gorgeous water.

After passing Solenzara, I was solo onboard with a night at anchor in the beautiful Baie San Cyprien, before sailing on to Bonifacio to collect my friend Jonathan. The historical quarter sitting atop the southern harbour entrance is stunning, especially at sunset.

From Bonifacio we headed north to Ajaccio, a long day of sailing, then down to Propriano, where we enjoyed beautiful beaches. We returned to Bonifacio to experience this harbour town again before heading south to Sardinia.

Arriving in the Costa Smeralda was mixed – despite stunning water and beautiful landscapes, the volume of pleasure craft, driven by what seemed like novices, made for a challenging environment.

Our route to the west coast of the Italian mainland began at Porto Rotondo. We motor-sailed in benign conditions for the 250-mile crossing of the Tyrrhenian Sea to Salerno. From Salerno we cruised north up the west coast, passing unheard of small towns and harbours.

Due to a lack of berth availability in Naples, we settled on the harbour of Torre Del Greco, to the south and in the striking shadows of Mount Vesuvius. The rather crumbling harbour revealed the atmospheric yacht club Circolo Nautico Torre Del Greco, which has a striking 1960s clubhouse.

We continued up the west coast, but had to modify our plans somewhat due to the weather. We took another unplanned stop at the excellent Marina di Pisa. Every port we stopped at on this section of the Italian coast was stunning. Carrara marble is quarried from the mountains here and is visible from the water.

Next stop was Porto Venere followed by Rapallo, a quintessential Italian riviera town. Finally we arrived in Genoa, where we were most generously hosted by the Yacht Club Italiano. From Genoa I sailed alone along the coast via Varazze, Marina di Loano and San Remo and on to Cap d’Ail before continuing to Cannes for a winter lay-up.

I’d sailed more than 1,400 miles, shared much of the experience with good friends and built self-confidence. These experiences don’t just happen, one must make them happen. As most readers would know, it’s not all plain sailing. However, it was extremely rewarding and I plan to return this summer!

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