These 5 Simple Surfing Steps Will Help You Ride Your First Wave
From the beach or your TV tuned into the Olympics, you’ve no doubt watched surfers riding waves and thought, “Now that would be fun.” But actually doing it—getting to the best surf destinations and up on a board is a whole other intimidating matter. How do you time the waves just right? How do you know when it’s your turn to catch one that’s rolling in? Plus, what gear do you need to get started? These are just a few of the pressing questions beginners have when venturing out into the waves with a surfboard. Our five-step, expert-led primer on how to surf is just what newbies (or rippers of all levels) need to get started or take it to the next level.
The beauty of surfing is that no two days on the water are the same. Wind, swells, and tide can all affect surf conditions, so you can be a continual student. If you’re breaking into the sport, or it's been ages since you’ve caught a wave, it’s a great idea to sign up for a surf lesson.
With wave pools becoming a major trend across the U.S., a quick search will lead to surfing programs that may be closer than you think, even if you're not an easy commute to Malibu or Cocoa Beach. Whether you're at the shore or a surf facility, a solid instructor can help you learn how to time the waves and even push you into your first one, so you can feel the thrill and build some momentum. After you gain some confidence, going out with friends or more experienced surfers will help you level up.
Related: 10 Best Wave Pools Worldwide for Stellar Surfing on Demand
Be patient. It can take at least two or three lessons before you pop up and ride your first wave—and several more before you’re ready to get out on the water on your own, says Stephen “Cruz” Morales, founder of Encinatas, CA-based Buenas Olas Surf School.
To break down how to get started surfing, we gathered tips from experts in the sport, including pro surfer and filmmaker Hunter Jones (see video above). Also weighing in is Jono Halstead, a lead surf instructor at Everyday California, a San Diego, CA-based Ocean Adventure Company.
From the ground rules of surf etiquette to catching your first wave, here’s how to get started surfing.
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Step 1: Learn Ocean Safety and Surf Etiquette
When you’re new to the sport, research beginner-friendly surf spots online, advises Halstead. The Surfline app provides helpful insights about the friendliness of areas and appropriate skill levels required for various breaks. “Beginner-friendly spots typically have a welcoming vibe, and the surfers in the water are often willing to help teach you the ropes,” he says.
Learn about rip currents, tides, and check the surf forecast before heading out in the water, he adds. You can also call or pop into a local surf shop to get the scoop. You might need to postpone if there’s been a heavy rainstorm, because urban runoff can increase water pollution.
Those who are new to the sport should watch the water before paddling out to make sure they’re comfortable with specific types of breaks and waves sizes. Morales recommends one- to three-foot waves for beginners.
When you do get in the water, do the “stingray shuffle” to avoid stepping on the underwater creatures and getting stung, Morales says, who has also traveled as a private surf guide to help clients explore other countries.
Before you join a surf lineup (the queue of surfers waiting to catch waves), master the art of controlling your board. “If you’re not confident in your ability to manage your board in the water, practice paddling and maneuvering in a calm, empty spot of the water first to avoid being a hazard to others,” Halstead says.
Once you’re in the surf lineup, give way to more advanced surfers. If it’s your turn to catch a wave, they’ll often encourage you to go for it. “It's often helpful to introduce yourself and mention you're new to the sport,” Halstead says.
A golden rule: “It’s one surfer per wave,” Jones explains. The right of way is given to the person who’s closest to where the wave is breaking. “Snaking” is when you cut ahead of someone, and you won’t make any new friends by doing this.
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Step 2: Master the Language of Surfing
The more time you spend in the water and around other surfers, the more lingo you’ll pick up. Here’s a handful of terms your instructor might introduce you to during your first surf lesson, and worth knowing before you catch your first wave.
Regular vs. Goofy Foot
Regular foot surfers ride with their left foot forward, while goofy foot surfers ride with their right foot forward.
Surfboard Parts
Get to know the anatomy of your surfboard.
- Fins are attached on the bottom of your board and help control and steer the board.
- The nose is the board’s front tip and the tail is the back part of your board—which come in different shapes that can factor into speed and control.
- A leash attaches to the surfboard deck near the tail and your ankle, preventing you from losing your board during a wipeout.
- Surfboard rails are the edges of the board, running from the nose to the fin, affecting things like turning, stability, and speed.
Types of Boards
- Foamies (soft-top boards) and longboards are great for beginners because they’re wider, longer, and more stable, notes Jones. They’re the ones to grab for smooth rides and to perfect your pop-ups.
- Shortboards maneuver better and are built for speed and tricks, but require more advanced skills .
Ocean Terms
Impact zone is where a wave first breaks. Whitewash is the broken white water of a wave that’s moving towards the shore—and great for beginners to learn on.
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Step 3: Master Basic Surfing Moves
If you take a lesson, your instructor will likely show you how to paddle and pop up while you’re on the shore. Ahead, Morales shares his steps for both basic maneuvers. Note: you’ll spend more time paddling than riding waves—especially in the beginning—so part one here is a key skill to master.
Paddling Instructions
- Lie on the board with your toes to the tail.
- Keep your feet together at all times.
- Keep your torso, hips, and legs centered on the board.
- Slightly cup your hand while keeping all fingers close together.
- Spear the water’s edge while pushing and reaching forward.
- Pull your cupped hand back parallel to the rail of your board until your hand reaches your shoulder, creating a sharp-bent elbow (chicken wing)—all while keeping your hand no deeper than half of your forearm's depth under the surface.
- Start to push backwards toward the tail and downward until your full arm reach has been extended back.
- Flick your hand downward, trying to leave the water you cupped behind you. Make sure you don't flick the water out of the water surface, but rather keep this movement underwater.
Pop-Up Instructions
- Lie on the center of your board with your toes to the tail with your feet together.
- Arch your back with your head up, looking forward.
- Put your hands flat on the top deck of the board with the knuckle of your thumb touching the edge of your armpits. You don't want to hold the rails.
- Do a pushup and use your back foot to plant down above the fin plugs on the tail of your foam board.
- In the same motion, lift your front foot and place it in between your two hands, bringing up your knee to your chest. Ultimately you want to be standing with your toes and chest facing the rail, while looking up and forward toward the direction of the nose. Note: Steps 4 and 5 happen at the same time, creating the actual pop-up.
- Stabilize yourself. Check if your feet are aligned with the center of the board, then bend your knees, but keep your back straight for better control and balance.
- Wherever you look is where you're going. Start by looking forward, not down. Once you're more comfortable, looking to the left or right will make you start to turn.
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Step 4: Catch Your First Wave
You’ve graduated from surfing lessons and are ready to catch your first wave on your own. It’s time to start putting everything together.
Gain confidence by catching whitewash, which is the wave that’s already broken—basically the foam that will catapult you toward shore, Jones says. It’s softer, less technical, and allows for more repetition.
When you’re ready to go out farther, start by watching the water. “Observe the waves and other surfers to understand the rhythm of the ocean,” Halstead says. While you’re doing this, you can stretch and apply wax to your board for better grip.
Then, it’s showtime: Paddle out to the lineup, where the waves start to break. Face your board toward the shore when you see a wave approaching. When it’s your turn, paddle to match the speed of the oncoming wave. Arch into a “cobra position” to prepare for the pop-up. Quickly pop to your feet, with your dominant foot naturally landing at the back of the board.
Keep your hands up for balance and look in the direction you want to go. Pro tip: “Once you’re out in the water, identify a lineup marker like a house, palm tree, or lifeguard tower that’s on land,” Jones says. “Once you catch a wave, you can just paddle right back out and be like, ‘Okay, I’m in the right spot to catch the best waves that are coming in.’ ”
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Step 5: Hone Your Technique
Looking to level up from beginner to intermediate? “Get comfortable on a longboard before you switch to a shorter board,” advises Jones. “Eventually, you can start bringing a couple boards down to the beach with you to assess the conditions and choose the right one to ride.”
After you’re well-versed in catching waves, you can start experimenting with turns, Halstead adds. “Point your hands and turn your head to guide your turns.” You can also start riding the top third of the wave to gain better control.
The best tip of all for getting better?
“Clock as much time as you can in the water,” Jones says. “Get out with friends who surf and who know more than you, or an actual trainer, and it'll help build your skills.”
Best Surf Gear to Get Started
Odysea Log, 9 ft
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A big board is best for beginners. Odysea Log from Laguna, CA-based Catch Surf is equipped with sturdy rails and a slightly more defined rocker (curvature at the bottom of the board) for superior soft-top performance, Morales says. It's also a great pick to help prevent nosediving in the waves due to excess weight in the front of the board—probably the biggest frustration for newbie surfers. The 8-foot model works well for most beginners, but for a little more stability, go with the Odysea 9-foot Log, designed by California surfers for riders of all levels.
XCEL Comp 4/3mm Full Wetsuit
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If the water is under 70 degrees, you’ll want a wetsuit to keep the cold from spoiling the fun. XCEL Comp wetsuits are prized among top surfers for their durability and comfort to keep you warm for the entire season. XCEL's Comp 4/3mm full wetsuit is the brand’s lightest and stretchiest, reinforced with a Thermolite IR core and critically taped seams. Consult local surf shops to get recommendations on suitable wetsuit thickness for the area you're in, suggests Morales. Remember, when trying on a wetsuit, it’s supposed to fit tight to provide adequate insulation from cold water. Also, to get the most life out of your wetsuit, always thoroughly rinse it afterwards with clean, fresh water. After, hang it in a shaded area, turning it inside out to let each side completely dry. “This will not only eliminate sand and salt, but most importantly prevent bacterial or fungal growth,” Morales says.
Creatures of Leisure Icon 9 Leash
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Almost any brand of leash will be good enough for a starter. Oftentimes, surf shops carry their own line, so why not help support a small local business by purchasing one of theirs? Morales’ go-to leash from Creatures of Leisure is straightforward and designed for small to medium waves. Make sure to match your leash according to board length. A 9-foot leash, for example, goes with a 9-foot board.
Everyday California Reef-Safe Continuous Spray Sunscreen
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Protect your skin—and the underwater creatures sharing your fragile playground—with a reliable (and responsible) sunscreen. Halstead recommends the mineral, reef-safe sunscreen from Everyday California. This water-resistant product sprays on with a non-aerosol mist and is formulated with ingredients that are safe for endangered coral reefs.
Sticky Bumps’ Custom 6-Pack Surf Wax
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Surf wax is a must for every beginner because it provides traction and grip to help you stay planted on your board. Surfers tend to gravitate toward their favorite type of surf wax. Jones’ favorites are from Sticky Bumps, which cater to a range of surfing conditions and work well when surfing waves that require walking on slippery rocks. “I always wax the top of my feet,” he advises. "While in the water, you can rub one foot on top of the other, creating extra grip and removing any dirt or dust from your feet."
Pro tip: Know the water temp or conditions where you’re surfing, because surf wax has varying levels of stickiness to correlate with different temperatures. Sticky Bumps’ custom 6-pack lets you mix and match accordingly.