Restaurant review: Sentio, Nicosia

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, Nicosia’s food scene is growing. Slowly and perhaps rather unilaterally – most new restaurants, in fact, still pander to their Hellenic roots, despite a fusion outlook – but it is undoubtedly growing.

Sentio, a stone’s throw away from Makarios Ave and Pindarou, perfectly embodies the latest culinary trends. Attention to detail, a rotating, seasonal menu and the feeling that on the plate ‘less is more’.

Similarly to Ethimo, another recent opening in the capital, close to the Thoc theatre, Sentio’s mission consists of combining bar vibes with refined dining. Does it work? I’d say yes, maybe because the whole place doesn’t ‘shout’ as others do.

Onto the food. Along with – who else? – my faithful dining companion, I was determined this time to not overdo it, ‘less is more’ on my plate too.

We started with a dakos burrata salad, with yellow and red cherry tomatoes, capers, basil dressing, barley rusk and, of course, burrata. This was a clever concoction, the sweetness and acidity of the tomatoes numbed down by the creamy texture of the cheese. Perhaps less tomatoes would’ve made the entry even better.

We then went on to deep fried and battered zucchini flowers accompanied by a mint sauce. Simple, yet extraordinary. Unfortunately it’s not a permanent entry on the menu.

Onto the two mains, prawn giouvetsi and veal sirloin, a fish and a meat choice, something I realised I’m enjoying more than I used to.

The giouvetsi is none other than the Greek version of the Italian lesser known orzotto, a type of pasta resembling rice grains. Its main strength relies on the fact it can be accompanied by a multitude of ingredients, spices, veggies and sauces. Giouvetsi is simply an empty canvas and it is up to the chef or the cook – let’s not be elitist – to come up with an idea.

The one at Sentio featured xynomyzithra, a Greek whey cheese with some added milk, roasted vegetables and tomato sauce. A true masterpiece, tangy and slightly piquant, my favourite of the night.

The veal was equally stunning, especially for my companion, who appreciated its tenderness and its side, roast potatoes coated in black pepper, chilli flakes and Maldon salt. For someone who is not a fan of spicy and piquant food, the fact that the potatoes disappeared from the plate was a feat in itself.

We then closed the night with a dessert called ‘chocolate textures’, featuring praline ganache, dark chocolate, salty caramel and lime ice cream. Fantastic in its complexity, yet a tad overwhelming, perhaps it would benefit from the absence of the ganache, in yours truly’s opinion at least.

All in all, Sentio was a success, the elaborate, yet approachable dishes, the airy patio, the quiet surroundings. Little misstep on the drinks: enjoyable and varied, but way too small in size, a critique I apply to most modern restaurants today. Pour some more, for heaven’s sake… after all cocktails deserve to last all night long!

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Modern Greek

WHERE Sentio, Stasandrou 13, Nicosia 1060

WHEN Monday to Saturday 6pm-1am

CONTACT 22 322324

HOW MUCH starters €6-16, main courses from €18-42, desserts €9