Pretty English coastline that’s a ‘secret seafood hotspot’ along with family-run vineyards and lakeside glamping
IF YOU’RE on the hunt for good seafood, Essex might not be the first place that springs to mind.
But as I throw back the last oyster from my plate, drizzled with shallot vinegar and a squirt of lemon, I succumb to the idea the county is a secret seafood destination just waiting to be discovered.
A cold, crisp glass of prosecco washes down the oysters nicely as I peacefully soak up views of the Blackwater Estuary and its rows of sailing boats, slowly rocking.
I’m at the Victory pub on Essex’s Mersea Island which is renowned for its oysters, harvested for centuries.
Hugging the coast of Essex, this island has a huge culinary scene and I can now say with certainty that you won’t have a tough time finding a decent seafood restaurant or quaint cafe in these parts.
For less than £50 a head, my partner and I dined like royalty on six oysters and two starters, followed by two generous portions of sizzling steak and chips and several ales and glasses of fizz.
And we couldn’t have asked for a fresher meal.
All of the oysters at The Victory are supplied by local family business Rock Oysters which plucks them from the nutrient-rich waters of the River Blackwater.
That’s why they’re so affordable and delicious, as they’re caught loc-ally and served up the same day.
But it’s not just oysters this river produces.
Sea-salt crystals are commonly harvested from the Black- water tidal flats, in the small town of Maldon where cobbled streets are lined with charming boutiques and artisanal cafes selling homemade treats and locally brewed ales.
Maldon sea salt has been a prized culinary ingredient since 1882 and its pyramid-shaped crystals are a fav-ourite among chefs and food enthusiasts worldwide.
Those keen to sample it should head to the Maldon Smokehouse, overlooking the river, which does a seafood platter (£70 for two) loaded with juicy prawns, smoked mackerel, smoked salmon, large crevettes and homemade salmon pate.
With our bellies full of fish, we were glad to be staying less than a ten-minute drive away at Chigborough Farm — a 130-acre rural haven with tranquil fishing lakes.
Our Woodpecker Pod was the perfect retreat, with a snug double bed, cosy lounge area, compact kitchen and outdoor BBQ space.
For convenience, the on-site restaurant, Farm Cafe by Black Pig, serves burgers, cakes and cracking brunches.
If you’re not into glamping, the local Wivenhoe House Hotel might be a better fit.
This Georgian estate, surrounded by lush green parkland, features country-chic bedrooms with balconies that are great for taking in the views while sipping a cocktail — try the kumquat margarita, made with tequila, kumquat liqueur, agave nectar and lime juice.
FABULOUS COASTAL VIEWS
If you are more of a wine drinker, the family-run Clayhill Vineyard sits south of here and is home to grape vines that stretch for miles.
The estate cultivates a variety of grapes, including bacchus and chardonnay, which thrive in the region’s unique climate and soil.
I particularly loved the English sparkling wine and at £19 per bottle it’s much cheaper — and in my opinion nicer — than champagne.
Keen to work off all that seafood and wine, we reckoned the eastern tip of Mersea Island was the perfect place for a stroll, home to some excellent walking trails.
Nature lovers will love Cudmore Grove, a country park with expansive grassy areas for picnics with fabulous coastal views.
Visitors can also explore remnants of a World War Two gun emplacement, and learn about how the park was formerly used as a coastal artillery gun battery.
But most people come here for bird-spotting, with many species inhabiting the salt marshes and mudflats — and as we watched the birds swooping in search of their next catch, it didn’t take long for our thoughts to turn back to seafood.
Another round of Mersea oysters, perhaps?
It’s safe to say that if you’re a seafood lover, The Only Way is Essex…
GO: ESSEX
STAYING THERE: The Wivenhoe House Hotel has rooms from £105 per night, including breakfast.
See wivenhoehouse.co.uk.
Camping pitches at Chigborough Farm costs from £14 while glamping costs from £65 per night.
See visitessex.com.
