Large and powerful surf conditions

Hello Friends,

It’s hear and it’s big and raw. Sets were in the overhead range at first light for the dozen or so keen riders in the water at Dee Why as of 0700. At 0600 the MHL buoy was showing 4.4 metres of 11.8 sec energy from the south. There’s likely more to come as the Eden buoy was peaking(?) at 6 metres at 11 seconds. Obviously this is not a day for anyone who isn’t a fit, experienced rider.

Wind was WSW at 15-23 kts at 0700 and like the swell, it’s due to increase to 25-35 kts later in the day. The swell may get a little incoming tidal push as it heads to the 1.6 m high at 1404 after bottoming out at 0735.

Air temp at 0730 was 7 C, so the wind chill will likely be nice and cold on wet skin. Water is on 16 C right now, but with all the wind, it could drop down a notch over the next couple of days.

The swell models are showing the energy remaining at the current intensity through Thursday before ticking down a little into the 3 metre range on Friday. The models continue to show the swell direction gradually moving from the S to SE tomorrow, and then very gradually getting to the ESE late in the week. That should be a recipe for surf through next weekend.

I’ll likely get out and about with the camera, so check in from late afternoon to see what I may have found.

Know your limits and stay safe everyone!

 

Forecast issued at 4:10 am EST on Monday 29 July 2024.