What’s next for Iloilo as UNESCO City of Gastronomy?

MANILA, Philippines — The Philippines has long been recognized as a melting pot of different food cultures and history. Iloilo City is living proof of that, and more. 

Soon to mark its first anniversary as one of 50 UNESCO Cities of Gastronomy, the famed food destination continues to exemplify the best of Filipino cuisine in all of its diversity and community.  

One of those leading the charge is Natalie Lim, general manager of Richmonde Hotel Iloilo and chairman to Iloilo’s MICE (Meetings, Incentives, Conferences and Events) Alliance.

Fresh off her team’s presentations at the Kuching Creative Cities Forum and Nyamai Gastronomy Festival, Lim engaged in a quick yet insightful chat among her peers at Manila Gastronomiya, a symposium held on Wednesday, September 18, at the Manila Food and Wine Festival that tackled topics such as local gastrotourism and local marketing, among others.

Lim is one of the spirited minds behind LaMeza Ilonggo, the hotel’s modern ode to the city’s heritage dishes. Far from your typical hotel fare, the restaurant has been recognized as a finalist for the Good Travel Stories award at the 2023 Global Green Destinations Conference. Lim also revealed that the restaurant will soon be featured in an upcoming Netflix series on Filipino cuisine.

Taste of Iloilo

Beyond the allure and prestige of her line of work, Lim found a larger purpose in uplifting the city’s culinary potential. “Ilonggo food has always been based on fiestas. It’s really served family style. Big portions, lots of sauce,” Lim said.

Iloilo is home to iconic staples such as La Paz Batchoy and Pancit Molo, aptly named after its districts. The city was also the site of the very last Spanish bastion in the country, as well as the first few settlements of the Chinese, which may explain its distinct palate.

“Now there’s more focus on endemic ingredients,” Lim said. “A lot more people know how to honor cultural food.”

But the catch? Lim found that Ilonggos could be quite conservative.

“They don’t like change. They like to eat in the talabahan. They’ll try a new place and then they’ll go back to their old restaurants,” Lim recalled. 

Basking in the best dishes the city has to offer only within the area could only do so much. While many restaurants and tasting dinners both in and out of Iloilo have attempted to capture the essence of Ilonggo food, much more can be done for the cuisine and its stakeholders. With that, Lim thought that it was time for Ilonggo food to “move out into the world.” 

Behind the bid

The city bid for the UNESCO citation twice. A rejection the second time would have resulted in a hold that would have lasted two years until they could apply again. Luckily, the city was granted the City of Gastronomy citation in November 2023, joining two other UNESCO Creative Cities Baguio as well as Cebu for folk and arts and design, respectively. 

“I think not a lot of people realize how powerful that network is. Being in that community is allowing us to share what we have for the rest of the world,” Lim said.

However, she emphasized that becoming a UNESCO City of Gastronomy doesn’t just end on recognition alone. All qualified cities must also come up with a four-year program that they will then be evaluated on. Likening the process to coveted Michelin stars, the citation could easily be stripped away should it not be upheld to the tee. 

What’s next?

For Iloilo City, the work continues as usual. From sustainable production with EDISCAPES (Edible Landscapes) and food security with Rise-A-Farm, the citation acts as a nudge towards continuing the noble work that’s already been done. 

More new projects are also on the horizon, said Lim. This includes the renovation and refurbishment of 17 public markets in Iloilo, made possible by a partnership between members of the private and public sectors. Boasting about 3,800 registered vendors and food stalls, the city is also enlisting the guidance of the University of the Philippines Visayas campus in holding sanitation and cleanliness sessions for ambulant vendors and those stationed in public markets.  

With environmental sustainability in mind, a few places in the city also partner with a materials collection group that collects plastics and repurposes them instead of dumping even more waste in landfills. 

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With a 21%-increase in businesses vying for local permits, more establishments are now subjected to various security regulations and health standards, which in turn can assure tourists and even locals themselves a safe stay on top of a holistic one. Through lectures organized with the aid of the Department of Tourism and Department of Science and Technology, the city is also making inclusive efforts to become more accommodating for Muslim guests and natives in particular. 

Back at the Richmonde, chefs at LaMeza Ilonggo and those from larger establishments are routinely holding talks for public schools and vendors, teaching fundamentals such as that of food costing. Inspired by the programs from her time at the Kuching forum, Lim is also hoping to adopt an international chef’s exchange of their own at LaMeza Ilonggo.

“We’ve always believed that every minute that we are in the community is a second we owe to them,” Lim said of her and the city’s endeavors. While not a native herself, the Manila-born hospitality professional has been “Ilonggated” for 10 years now. 

“We may not be Ilonggos, but it is our job and our mission to promote Iloilo to the world, because we have the mechanism,” Lim said, encouraging F&B leaders in the private sector as well as other LGUs who wish to tread the same path to take the leap.

According to her, this could be materialized by putting their farmers and fishermen first, paying attention to market matching, and investing in the right technology and R&D.

 “We’re able to do it, so why don’t we do it?” – Rappler.com