Exploring Saba and Statia: Hidden Gems of the Eastern Caribbean

This month I want to share my highlights at two Dutch islands that are some of the least visited islands in the Eastern Caribbean. The first is Saba island, which is five square mountainous miles that jut right out of the sea. There is only one way onto the island and the surrounding seas can be rough. I personally would recommend flying there from St Martin instead of taking your boat, but it is a gem and should not be missed. The second island is nearby St Eustatius (known simply as Statia), which is eight square miles, but has very flat land between two dormant volcanoes. Statia is a huge oil transfer site, but that is at the north end of the island and will not diminish your enjoyment. Now let’s dive into the Top 10 of Saba & Statia.

10. The Road That Couldn’t Be Built (Saba) – The mountains of Saba only reach 2910 feet above the sea, but they go almost straight up and down. In fact, Dutch engineers deemed it was impossible to build roads on the island and the locals would have to be content with the foot and donkey paths around the island. That did not sit well with Joseph “Lambee” Hassell, so he took an engineering correspondence course and in 1943 led the other locals in the building of a road that professionals said could not be built. Very cool story about not giving up for something you want.

9. Dutch Reformed Church (Statia) – This church was built in 1755 and got repeatedly beaten up by hurricanes over the years. Now it is just a ruin with no roof, but you can climb to the top of the bell tower for some great views. Around the church is a cemetery with some beautiful headstones.

8. St. Eustatius Museum (Statia) – This small two story house is packed with information about the island and how important it was to the Caribbean in the past, which you will learn a little bit about below.

7. Fort Oranje (Statia) – The fort was built in 1636 and was renovated several times during the 17th and 18th centuries. The Dutch name translates to Fort Orange and is in Oranjestad (Orange Town). The names refer to the House of Oranje, the royal family of the Netherlands and not the color. On November 16, 1776 the governor had the fort’s cannon return ‌a ‌salute of 11 shots ‌to‌ ‌the USS Andrew Doria. This was the first recognition by a foreign power of America’s independence.

6. Museums (Saba) – In the town of Windwardside, Saba has two museums. The first is a period house called the Harry Luke Johnson Museum. This beautiful home shows what life was like on Saba before modern conveniences arrived on the island. The second museum is the Dutch Museum and was my favorite. It is actually in the home of a retired Dutchman and is his personal collection. While the displays are nice, it was his personality and enthusiasm showing it all off that made my visit so enjoyable.

5. The Ladder (Saba) – Ladder Bay is the open roadstead anchorage on the leeward side of the island. It was here that an 800 step staircase was built up the cliff. This staircase came to be called The Ladder and until the 1960’s and 70’s all goods and people gained access to the island by climbing The Ladder. Today Fort Bay is the water access to the island, but the size and history of The Ladder make it a fascinating hike. Plus the snorkeling along the cliff is good.

4. Towns (Saba) – Saba has four towns in a string around the main mountain. They are The Bottom, Windwardside, St John’s, and Hell’s Gate. What is so wonderful about these towns is how cute they are sitting on the mountain side like a string of pearls. The roads are narrow, clean, and orderly. While all the buildings have the same red tiled roofs and the people are very inviting. I think these are the prettiest towns in the entire Caribbean.

3. Mount Scenery (Saba) – The main mountain of Saba, and the one the towns are strung around, is called Mount Scenery. It sits 2910 feet above the sea and is actually the highest point in the Kingdom of the Netherlands. The trail to the top is a staircase that was built and it can be slippery at times due to the amount of clouds at the top. If you want to see the view from the top your best bet is to hike in the morning, but if you are like me and wanted to hike into the clouds, then the afternoon is when you should go.

2. Lower Town (Statia) – The leeward side of Statia is unique because there is a 100-200 foot flat strip of land before the 100 foot cliff. This strip has become Lower Town and most of the residents and services are above in Upper Town. The history of Lower Town is everywhere, because this was the major point of transhipment of captured Africans, goods, and a focus for trade in contraband due to its location and no duties required. You can still see the remains of the warehouses along the waterfront and some have slipped into the water making snorkeling fascinating as you are exploring parts of a sunken town. To get to Upper Town you can use the newer road for cars or the historic Old Slave Trail cobblestone footpath.

1. The Quill (Statia) – My number one spot in Saba and Statia is the hike up the 1975 foot high dormant volcano called The Quill (from the Dutch word kuil, meaning ‘pit’, referring to the crater). Besides a great hike along a footpath, the view from the top is excellent as you look down on the island and see how the eruption 1400 years ago filled in the space between this volcano and the nearby one to make the island of Statia. From the top you can also look down into the crater and even though it is covered in forest, you can still tell it is a volcano. I loved sitting at the top and watching the small clouds spill over the rim and down into the crater.

Would you like to read more of Capt Shane’s time on Saba, Statia, or any other Caribbean island? Check out svGuidingLight on the web, YouTube, Instagram, and Facebook.

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