I went to the winter sun island that’s still unspoilt – with dozens of beaches, waterfall swimming and treehouse lodges
FLY to a remote Caribbean island, flop on a sun lounger and rotate like a rotisserie chicken for a week until you’re perfectly golden.
If that’s your idea of a dream holiday then you can take your pick of Antigua, St Lucia or Barbados.
But if you want a little more, try Tobago.
This hidden gem boasts the same soft, white sand, clear blue waters and tropical rainforests as its Caribbean counterparts.
And while there’s still a handful of high-end resorts, glamorous nightlife and shops, the island prides itself on its natural beauty, history and wildlife.
As the rainy season reaches an end in December, the flora and fauna come alive, and January and February are some of the best times to spot local wildlife on both land and sea.
You can witness the island’s white-tailed hummingbirds take to the air or watch as newly hatched baby leatherback turtles make their way to the sea.
Tobago remains a mostly untouched, unspoilt island, with almost 10,000 acres of rainforest and 75 miles of coastline, along with dozens of beaches, ranging from soft white to volcanic black.
The many picturesque bays to explore include Pirate’s Bay — the supposed favourite of the legendary Blackbeard — and scuba diving heaven, Speyside.
The Main Ridge Rainforest towards the north of the island is home to hummingbirds, black-throated mangos as well as other impressive wildlife, including the Brazilian black hawk, armadillos, spiders, scorpions and snakes, thankfully mostly non-poisonous.
In among the island’s coral reefs you can see thousands of tropical fish as well as stingrays, spotted dolphins and leatherback turtles.
See them all on a glass- bottomed boat trip to Little Tobago, a tiny isle just off the north coast that is home to a myriad of exotic birds.
There are few roads and no cars on the island, but guides can take you along hiking trails to spot red-billed tropicbirds and the magnificent frigatebird.
For more up-close animal encounters, visit Corbin Local Wildlife in the village of Mason Hall, a sanctuary working to reintroduce almost-lost species, such as the brocket deer and red squirrel, into the wild.
Visit Shurland’s Nature Park or Cuffie River Retreat for a spot of lunch with the birds, or take a private tour down the Gilpin Trail’s lush jungle lanes, through waterfalls and natural pools.
If the wildlife isn’t enough to entice you, there are plenty of other activities to draw you in, from learning the history of the island at Fort King George to swimming in waterfalls, or the multiple fresh-water pools at Parlatuvier Falls.
Take to the water on a 40ft catamaran with Dream Catcher Marine Charters, touring bays that can only be reached by water, including tiny island No Man’s Land.
From there, you can walk the Nylon Pool, a sand bank with waist-high water thought to hold mystical properties, which was named by Princess Margaret.
Or head over to Healing With Horses in Buccoo to take a ride along the beach and a dip on horseback into the Caribbean sea.
If there’s one thing to note about Tobago, it’s that you won’t go hungry.
For the best lobster, served fresh with taro root, cassava, spiced rice and macaroni and cheese pie, stop off at Birdwatchers in Speyside.
Learn how to make one of the island’s most popular dishes, curried crab and dumplings, with a cooking lesson in Miss Trim’s kitchen at Crown Point, before popping down to her beachside food hut.
Sample a steak at Z’s Grill Shack, braised pork at Brown Cow, or, for a fancy dinner date night, try the rack of lamb at the Seahorse Inn, a popular spot with locals.
In between meals, you can find local street food called doubles — a flatbread with a spicy chickpea curry.
Astonishing views
Or pop down to a local dirt oven, which can be found in most villages, for a loaf of fresh bread.
Each restaurant will have its own blend of rum punch worth trying, and while there are bars dotted all over the island, locals will tell you to check out Glasgow Bar.
And if you are looking to be at one with nature, Castara Retreats is a popular eco-resort famed for its wooden lodges that are built into the rainforest hillside of Castara Bay.
Owned by UK-born Steve Felgate and run by his best friend, Tobagonian Derek “Porridge” Lopez, the self-catering, open-sided wooden treehouses and lodges are laid back and rustic, most with astonishing sea views.
There are daily yoga classes taught in an open-plan lodge high in the forest, with teacher Juda also offering a range of massages to really get you relaxed.
A restaurant and bar is also open on site, serving up homecooked meals with local ingredients courtesy of Welsh chef Julia, but guests are encouraged to enjoy breakfast at local cafe, Cheno’s.
For a more traditional hotel stay, the Coco Reef resort in Crown Point on the south western coast has beachfront access and an astonishing lobby with 30ft bamboo palms, fountains and statues.
Tobago offers a very different experience to many of its neighbours.
It’s a chance to immerse yourself in an intoxicating mix of nature and adventure.
If you’re on the lookout for a truly authentic Caribbean island away from the glitz and glamour of the more A-lister choices, Tobago is hard to beat.
GO: TOBAGO
GETTING THERE: British Airways flies from Gatwick with fares from £525 return.
See ba.com/tobago.
STAYING THERE: One-bed lodges at Castara Retreats start from £117 per night, sleeping two.
See castararetreats.com.
Coco Reef rooms from £198 per night.
See cocoreeftobago.com.
MORE INFO: See visittobago.gov.tt.