US destination loved by Harry and Meghan has huge vineyards and palm-tree lined promenades
AFTER a trip to the American Riviera, I’m a new woman – up at the crack of dawn and bursting with energy.
Maybe that’s down to the inviting breeze on the rooftop of the Courtyard by Marriott hotel as I watched my first Santa Barbara sunrise (in December, dawn is at a reasonable 7am).
You can also watch the sun come up at nearby Butterfly Beach in Montecito where Harry and Meghan have been known to walk their dogs.
In this area of California, shades of magenta, orange and blue dance on a treacle-top Pacific Ocean — and it’s like stepping into a painting.
To get to this paradise destination, which is warm all year round, I paid less than £500 for flights from London to Los Angeles and back.
After a few days strolling the Hollywood sights in LA, I was desperate for a change of pace and fresh air.
And in two hours I was in Santa Barbara looking up at the Santa Ynez mountains and down below to the captivating Pacific.
I travelled for £35 on the double-decker Amtrak train, which is far less stressful than driving a hire car up the Pacific Coast Highway — and you can really take in the views from the window.
Within a few square miles in this beautiful town are 30 wine-tasting rooms with the best that Santa Barbara has to offer.
Rather than spend weeks trekking the surrounding mountains to visit its 150-plus vineyards, guests can taste the magic that is happening in dozens of saloons in the town below.
Microclimate mirrors South of France
I started at Carrs Winery in the vibrant Haley Corridor neighourhood, where owner Ryan Carr has been sourcing grapes exclusively from Santa Barbara County since 1999.
He transports them to his 1940s-style Quonset Hut — similar to our wartime steel Nissen huts — and offers them up with wine, plates of cheese and other fruit served off barrels, while a friendly sommelier tells us how they have come to grow such delicious booze.
In turns out they have benefited from microclimates that mirror the South of France, allowing pinot gris, pinot noir, cabernet franc, grenache and syrah to grow.
Jamie Slone is another acclaimed winemaker living out his American dream, having relocated to Santa Barbara with his wife Kym following a career in radio and racing cars.
It’s a passion project for the proud dad, who has named bottles after his children Kelly and Ryan.
His taproom is decked out with leather armchairs and mahogany shelves stacked with wine.
Further along in El Paseo, renowned as California’s oldest shopping centre, Spanish colonial architecture and cobblestone pathways lead to more tasting rooms.
And a district of bars called the Funk Zone pairs them with live music.
Another way to enjoy the wine is to grab a bottle and cycle along the Cabrillo Bike Path, which offers four miles of scenery from Shoreline Park to Butterfly Beach.
Meandering along palm tree-lined paths past the Santa Barbara Harbour and the historic Stearns Wharf, which dates back to 1872, I caught a glimpse of a giraffe peeping out of its enclosure in Santa Barbara Zoo.
Keeping the coast on my right and mountains on my left, I peddled along Channel Drive and past the Santa Barbara Cemetery, reaching the perfect photo spot overlooking Butterfly Beach.
Within Santa Barbara, traces and nods to its 13,000-year history are everywhere.
Artifacts from Native Americans the Chumash, who first settled here, are on show in the Historical Museum.
Much later in the 18th century, Santa Barbara became part of Mexico until it was signed over to the United States in an 1848 treaty to end the war between the two countries.
The old town’s white stucco streets, once battled over, can be explored on the city’s self-guided walking tour.
It takes you past the best photo hotspots, including the Museum of Art and Courthouse clock tower with its 360-degree views.
On the streets below, I saw people with mats tucked under arms heading into a yoga studio.
Almost everyone appears healthy and slim here. But that’s not for the lack of temptation to indulge.
Fresh fish with a view? The chipotle blackened swordfish served with tomato oil, roasted corn and avocado relish at Bluewater Grill has you covered.
For all other kinds of food, the Public Market has Japanese, Jewish, Thai and American BBQ.
But I lined up behind a cop at Little Heart Cafecito after seeing him order a breakfast burrito.
It bulged with scrambled eggs, red cabbage, avocado and black beans.
On my final morning I had the beach all to myself while sipping on my Havana cinnamon coffee from Jeannines, apparently a favourite of Meghan Markle.
I watched one old-timer and his dog as the pup chased the waves — and the waves chased it back — and was filled with a sense of pure peace.
But then it was time to head back to LA.
At least the Amtrak gave me one last look at those Pacific Coast Highway views before I sadly had to fly home, to reality.
GO: SANTA BARBARA
GETTING THERE: British Airways has flights to Los Angeles from Heathrow from £468 return.
See ba.com/losangeles.
Amtrak train from LA to Santa Barbara, £35 each way.
See amtrak.com.
STAYING THERE: Courtyard Santa Barbara Downtown has double rooms from £222 per night.
See marriott.com.
OUT & ABOUT: Cycle hire, $8 (£6.20) per 30 minutes or $30 (£23.50) unlimited.
Wine tasting at Carr Winery and Jamie Sloan Wines, £24.
MORE INFO: visitsantabarbara.com.