What Is Semi-Formal Attire for Men? We're Here to Help

24.12.2024 17:40

We get it—another dress code. Between business casual, business formal, smart casual, semi-formal, and formal, the dress code scramble can be head-spinning, especially when navigating weddings, year-end gatherings, or fancy soirées that call for a more polished look. But that's why we’re here. So what is semi-formal for men? We've got you.

The good news is that semi-formal attire is refreshingly straightforward. Think of it as a middle ground: a step down from formal but a notch above business casual. It's not as rigid as the most formal dress codes, which usually demand a tuxedo, but it does mean you'll need a suit—or, at the very least, a great blazer paired with well-tailored dress slacks. So, button up—we'll help you nail it.

It's in the details: semi-formal look on the left, formal on the right.

Courtesy Images

Semi-Formal vs. Formal Attire

In order to understand semi-formal, let's start with formal attire—the dressiest of dress codes. In the U.S., formal means wearing a tuxedo, an evening shirt, a bow tie, black patent leather shoes, or evening slippers. While the formal dress code has relaxed a bit (you're unlikely to see many guys in tuxedos with waistcoats or tails—that's more of a U.K. thing), formal still calls for classic evening wear. A tuxedo is defined by its satin details: lapels, buttons, and a stripe down the trousers. Pair it with a classic evening shirt, often made in solid white cotton twill or broadcloth. A bow tie is the way to go, though you might sneak by with a black silk tie in borderline formal settings. Less common today, cummerbunds remain a suave nod to tradition (channeling your inner Mr. Bond). Lastly, patent leather shoes are nonnegotiable. Call me traditional, but if the invite says formal, it's best to go all in. Besides, there's nothing quite like wearing a full tuxedo—it's a confidence boost that makes you feel like many millions of bucks.

What Is Semi-Formal Then, Exactly?

Now that we’re clear on formal dress code, we can dissect semi-formal. Generally, semi-formal is foolproof for events like elevated work functions, soirées, or as a wedding guest. It hits that sweet spot between formal and business casual—less rigid than formal attire but still more polished and put-together than business casual.

The foundation: a sharp suit or blazer paired with a crisp dress shirt, a tie, and dress shoes. Unlike business casual, which might include chinos, dark jeans, or an unlined casual blazer, semi-formal calls for a classic suit (bonus points for a double-breasted) or a structured blazer with tailored trousers. A two-piece wool suit or blazer in a neutral, classic hue—navy, black, or gray—paired with a crisp dress shirt, a tie or pocket square, and proper dress shoes is a fail-safe option. If you go with separates, make sure the blazer and trousers have the same elegance and intention as a full suit. As for the tie, it's technically optional, but we say go for it. A silk tie (or at least a pocket square) makes the outfit sing. Your footwear has some potential variety: leather dress shoes like Oxfords, loafers, sleek Chelsea boots, or monk straps all work. It’s also hard to resist wingtips, which straddle the line between semi-formal and full-on formal. Plus they’re just cool to look at.

Now we dive into each garment to nail your semi-formal ensemble—because yes, the little things do matter in semi-formal settings.

The Suit

The foundation of semi-formal is a well-tailored suit—but not just any suit. This isn’t the time for your flashy velvet number or that corduroy suit channeling Wes Anderson holiday party vibes. Instead, think sleek and elegant—ideally, a 100 percent wool suit with a matte finish. Classic doesn’t mean boring; it means timeless. While subtle patterns like pinstripes or windowpane can work, sticking to standard black, navy, or gray keeps things polished. In summer, light gray or khaki linen and cotton suits are acceptable but make sure they’re refined—not as though you’ve wandered in from a beach resort. Fit is everything: tailored well, neither too tight nor loose (we’ll get into details below). Bonus points if you go double-breasted, which as we’ve mentioned before, is having a moment.

The Shirt

Keep it simple with a crisp white or light blue dress shirt—classic and versatile. While we love an Oxford shirt, its thicker texture and casual button-down collar might not always fit the semi-formal bill. Still, an Oxford is on the cusp, and always natty. Opt for a 100 percent cotton dress shirt in white or light blue (a very subtle pattern is okay) with a spread collar—not too pointy or cutaway, though that’s up to personal preference. The goal is simplicity and versatility, so the shirt complements any semi-formal look. And, of course, make sure it’s ironed or pressed—though you already knew that.

The Tie (or Pocket Square)

A tie isn’t strictly required for a semi-formal look, but we recommend it. And the right tie can make all the difference. Here is your chance to play with patterns and colors, but keep it refined. Generally, stick to silk ties or dressy wool; a deep navy or rich jewel tone is always a safe bet. Silk knit ties generally sway casual yet look brilliant with Oxford shirts. If you go tieless, make sure your dress shirt has a stiff collar with collar stays, and only unbutton the top one or two buttons. For a finishing touch, consider adding a silk pocket square in a rich hue or suave pattern to add some panache to the look.

The Shoes

Don’t lace up heritage boots, sneakers, heavily brogued shoes, suede bucks, or robust round-toe Chelsea boots. Semi-formal calls for proper dress shoes. While formal evening wear means patent leather, semi-formal offers more flexibility, allowing for polished leather varieties like derbies—with their open lacing and side panels sewn atop the vamp—or Oxfords, which are sleeker with their closed-lacing design and quarters sewn beneath the vamp. Stick to classic colors like black, dark brown, or rich burgundy, and save lighter tan shades for business casual. Monk straps and more polished leather Chelsea boots can also work, as can dressier suede options in chocolate brown or navy.

The Blazer

It’s perfectly acceptable to break up a semi-formal look with a blazer and slacks, but this sits at the lower end of the semi-formal formality spectrum, so a few rules apply: Sleek minimalism is key here. The blazer should be half or quarter-lined, ideally made of wool, and feature a peak or notch lapel in neutral tones like navy, black, or gray. While unlined, textured blazers pair beautifully with jeans or chinos for smart casual looks, they exude a more relaxed “jacket” vibe that’s too informal for semi-formal occasions. Choose a blazer with matte-finish wool, proper buttons, and an overall refined appearance. Whether single- or double-breasted, avoid bold patterns and textures like corduroy or tweed. A wool flannel blazer can work if it leans more polished and elegant.

The Trousers

Make sure your trousers are equally dressy—this is not the time for khakis, corduroy, or most definitely jeans. Stick to proper dress slacks in navy, black, or gray wool, or a wool flannel for a touch of texture. A monochromatic look works well, like pairing a navy blazer with slightly different navy-hued trousers for some depth. Neutral tones can also provide an elegant visual contrast—think a navy blazer with dark gray or tan trousers—but in these cases, adding a tie is a smart move to elevate the look. Whatever the combination, it’s important to match the formality of your separates for a cohesive, polished appearance.

Dos and Don’ts

Now that you've nailed the garments, let’s switch gears to colors, patterns, fit, and material to navigate the semi-formal sphere. While formal attire rules are straightforward, semi-formal allows for more experimentation—within reason. When in doubt, less is more, and you’ll rarely miss the mark by leaning more into the "formal" side of "semi-formal." Let the fit and quality of materials do the talking, keeping colors and patterns understated and sophisticated.

Fit

We’re living in an era where voluminous silhouettes reign supreme. That’s great if you love it for yourself. But let’s be clear: You don’t have to jump on every trend, especially if it clashes with your personal style. Ultimately, what’s never out of style is properly tailored clothing. Not too slim, not too wide—just tailored to your body, with enough give to move but enough structure to flatter. A skilled tailor is your secret weapon; off-the-rack blazers and trousers rarely fit perfectly. While semi-formal lets you get playful, this isn’t the time to channel a 1920s wide-leg look. Stick to tailored, elegant, and intentional—those qualities are always in style.

Patterns

Semi-formal is not the time to break out that bold houndstooth or plaid blazer you’ve been itching to wear, nor is it the moment to test-drive patterned dress shirts. A subtle windowpane or pinstripe on your suit or blazer is perfectly fine, but when in doubt, keep it minimal and refined—let the fit and materials take center stage. That said, your tie or pocket square is where you can inject a hint of personality with a nuanced pattern, adding a bit of character to the ensemble.

Colors

As with patterns, hold off on the debut of that emerald green blazer or bright pink dress shirt. In other words, keep it neutral, fellas. Stick to classic white or light blue for the shirt. Gray, navy, or black for the blazer and trousers are fail-safe choices, but it doesn’t need to all be so classic. Consider taupe, stone, or even a cobalt for some variation. If you want a pop of personality, let your tie or pocket square lean on color. For dress shoes, black is always a safe bet, but brown or a rich jewel tone like burgundy works beautifully, too.

Materials

Wool is top for suits, blazers, and trousers—it's timeless, polished, and unbeatable for semi-formal attire. Feeling fancy? Cashmere is a luxurious upgrade. On a budget? A poly-blend can work, but make sure there's some wool in there. There's no debate for shirts: Total 100 percent cotton is the standard for comfort and elegance. Ties? Silk is best, but wool can add some refined texture. Shoes? Opt for polished leather (not patent) or smooth, refined suede, and make sure your shoes shine (a "well-earned" patina is awesome for weekend wear or smart casual, just not in this mode). And let's be clear: dark dress socks only. Leave the whimsical martini socks for Secret Santa exchanges or lounging at home—preferably with an ice-cold martini in hand.