A Guide to the Different Types of Boots for Men and Women
Know your boots?
When cool temperatures come around, many people celebrate the arrival of “Sweater Weather.” But for shoe lovers, it’s all about boot season — embracing the extremely versatile footwear built to protect feet from the elements.
But qualifies as a boot in the first place? The answer is at first straightforward: It’s a shoe with a “taller” upper or shaft that covers the ankle. From there, things become more nuanced. Boot shafts vary in height and shape, as do their heels. Boots can be made of leather, rubber, shearling, nylon, etc. And they can fulfill different needs based on their technical features and silhouette shape.
And while boots traditionally were categorized as being for either fashion or function, the amount of crossover today between those two genres makes it impossible to classify a boot as solely one or the other. Work and western boots are now fixtures on fashion runways. And many sophisticated high-heeled boots have adopted enough high-tech comfort and weather-resistant features to challenge rugged hikers.
So to break it all down, below are descriptions of 13 of the most common types of boots, presented in alphabetical order. Included are details about each boot’s history and current usage, as well as popular brands and famous wearers.
Chelsea Boots
The Chelsea boot is credited to J. Sparkes-Hall, a London shoemaker who was also a cobbler to the royal family. Sparkes-Hall patented the prototype for the boot in 1851, but it’s believed that he originally designed the shoe in 1837 for Queen Victoria, who was looking for a boot that would be polished and comfortable — and fit into the stirrups of a saddle without sliding around. The defining characteristics of the Chelsea boot silhouette are a flat sole (with some styles including rubber for traction) and elastic side panels that make them easy to pull on. In the 1960s, John Lennon and Paul McCartney began wearing a version of the Chelsea with pointed toes and a narrow Cuban heel, thus popularizing the Beatle boot. Throughout that era, the Chelsea was a favorite among the British mod crowd, including The Rolling Stones. Interestingly, the style remains a fashion mainstay for both men and women, who can choose from all number of variations. However, some of the most iconic versions today are the rugged boots made by Dr. Martens and Blundstone.
Chukka Boots
Perhaps you know this footwear style by its other moniker, the Desert Boot, a name trademarked by the Clarks footwear company. In 1941, Nathan Clark was posted to Burma as part of the Royal Army. There, he encountered some 8th Army officers from the North African campaign wearing ankle-high suede boots that were made to order in the bazaars of Cairo, Egypt. While the shoes were used by soldiers to traverse the desert terrain, Clark saw their potential as a casual, comfortable footwear option for everyday customers. Not everyone at his family company agreed, but he officially launched the shoes in 1950 and they became a global phenomenon. Chukka boots, which typically have leather uppers laced together with two or three eyelets, are now produced by all manner of brands, from Prada to Polo. They are a unisex style, but most popular among men, who have incorporated the shoe into their work wardrobes amid the casualisation of office attire.
Combat Boots
Combat boots — also referred to as tactical boots — are the footwear worn by military or law enforcement personnel. The originals of military footwear have been traced back to the Roman Empire, with numerous evolutions through the years. The version that most consumers wear as a fashion item — and that rose to popularity in the 1990s grunge era — is a variation of the “jump” boot, a type of combat footwear made for paratroopers in World War II. Constructed of black leather, it had mid-calf lacing, a lug sole and rounded toe. Today, the U.S. military requires that soldiers wear boots that are “coyote” tan colored, made of genuine cowhide leather, be 8 to 10 inches tall and have a rubber or polyurethane sole, according to Garmont Tactical. Beyond that, the boots can vary. Depending on the environment and job requirements, they may be equipped with protective features such as steel toes and flame resistance or built to withstand extreme temperatures. Some of the major brands producing combat boots are Bates, Rocky Boots, Danner, McRae and others.
Cowboy Boots
Like other styles on this list, the Western cowboy boot was born out of function and evolved into a fashion item. The original silhouette was intended for use by cowboys who needed a shoe with a toe bed narrow enough to fit into the stirrups of a saddle and enough ankle support to prevent any twisting or turning that came along with the job. The angled heel was also intentional, to keep it from slipping down in the stirrups. There’s no exact documentation for the first Western boots in North America, but they are thought to have first appeared in Mexico in the late 1500s and early 1600s, having been introduced by the Spanish. Their first pop culture moment came in the 1920s, with the advent of silent films. In later decades, Western movie stars like John Wayne and Clint Eastwood helped maintain the boot’s mainstream popularity, as well as country music icons including Hank Williams, Johnny Cash, Garth Brooks and George Strait. Today, cowboy boots are experiencing a cross-cultural zeitgeist moment, fueled by female music stars Taylor Swift and Beyoncé Knowles, TV shows like “Yellowstone” and high-fashion designs from Louis Vuitton and Christian Louboutin. But those looking for the authentic Western look can still find classic styles from brands such as Lucchese, Tony Lama, Justin, Tecovas, Twisted X and more.
Hiking Boots
Modern hiking boots are the culmination of decades of scientific study and innovation. Brands such as Danner, Merrell, Salomon and La Sportiva have engineered tech-heavy shoes that can handle rugged terrain and also keep feel comfortable (and dry) in the elements. Typically made with a high supportive ankle cuff, the best hiking boots feature a waterproof lining, high-traction rubber outsoles, molded cushioned insoles and uppers made of leather, suede, nylon and other durable materials. But that wasn’t always the case. When casual hiking first gained popularity post-World War I — after industrialization provided more time for leisure activities — hikers used boots made entirely of leather (including the sole). Over time, innovations like Vibram outsoles in 1937 and the first Gore-Tex waterproofed boots in 1980 changed the footwear landscape — and those still remain gold-standard features in performance boots. Of late, though, the so-called “gorpcore” trend, which takes inspiration from outdoor wear, has turned hiking boots into high fashion. You can now find luxury versions by Hermes, Prada, Berluti and others.
Knee-High and Thigh-High Boots
These boots are all about height — and style. As the names suggest, knee-high looks have a shaft that stops just below the knee, while thigh-high boots extend further, to mid-thigh. And for something in between those two options, you also have your over-the-knee versions. While many boots would technically qualify as knee-high looks (biker and riding boots, for example), the term is often used to describe fashionable rather than functional options. The heels here can be sky-high, for example, or even a controversial kitten heel. And expect to see all manner of colors, materials and embellishments on knee-high and thigh-high boots. In terms of how to wear them, the boots are extremely versatile. Pair them with long dresses, short dresses, flowing skirts, mini skirts, leggings, skinny jeans — or just with an oversized top á la Hailey Bieber. They can do it all.
Motorcycle Boots
Motorcycle boots (sometimes called moto or biker boots) can be easily identified by their use of hardware. There are versions with adjustable metal buckles that secure straps around the ankle and/or calf (this is often called an engineer boot). And others have harness rings affixed to straps that wrap around the foot (predictably, this is a harness boot). Historically, motorcycle boots were made with heavy black or brown leather that extended almost to the knee, to protect legs from hot exhaust pipes and the engine block. They had low heels and square or rounded toes for ease in riding. Today, that classic moto boot look is a fashion item offered in numerous variations and price points, made by everyone from Saint Laurent and Versace to Frye, Michael Kors and more brands. The boots pair well with floral dresses and mini skirts, as well as leggings and skinny jeans. As for serious bikers, many now opt for more high-tech versions with a sculpted silhouette, padding and durable, waterproofed materials.
Riding Boots
When we talk about riding or equestrian boots, what we’re generally describing is a version of the English dress boots made famous by the British aristocracy. (Picture royals on fox hunts or Kate Middleton in her favorite Penelope Chilvers tall boots.) This style typically is made of smooth leather in black or dark brown, with a tapered toe and a low heel and a shaft that extends to the knee to protect the leg. Variations on the theme including adding a harness ring to hold straps around the ankle or incorporating a zipper or elastic panels on the back of the shaft for ease of wear. Another traditional riding style — called field boots — have lacing on the vamp. There are also paddock boots, which are ankle height and tend to be more comfortable for everyday riding. But for those who simply love the look but don’t plan to go anywhere near a horse, there are numerous options at every price point, from bootmakers like Ariat and Frye to Ralph Lauren and Gucci.
Rain Boots
Depending on where you are in the world, your rainy day footwear might go by different names. In American English, they’re referred to as rubber or rain boots. While in British English, they’re often called a welly, short for Wellington boot. That name comes from Arthur Wellesley, the 1st Duke of Wellington, a British military hero and two-time Prime Minister. In the early 1800s, Wellesley asked his personal shoemaker to modify the knee-high Hessian boots worn by British Army officers to remove the decorative elements and incorporate soft calfskin. As he was a major trend-setter of the era, Wellesley’s boots were quickly adopted by Englishmen. During World War I, the company now known as Hunter Boot began making rubberized wellies for the military, thus cementing the reputation of the brand — and the boot. Hunter got a further image boost in 1980, when Lady Diana Spencer (the future Princess Diana) wore them in a photo op. Today, rain boots by Hunter and many other brands are a fixture at music events like the Glastonbury Festival and Governors Ball, and on city streets across the globe.
Shearling Boots
You can thank the Aussies for this cozy boot style. Australian ugg boots were first used by shepherds and sheep shearers, who would use leather straps to wrap sheepskin around their legs. The same technique was also reportedly used by Australian and British pilots during World War II to prevent frostbite during unpressurized flights. The boots entered more mainstream fashion in the 1970s, when Australian surfers adopted the thick, shearling-lined boots as their post-surf footwear. One such surfer was Brian Smith, an Aussie native who was living in Santa Monica, Calif., and had the idea to import shearling boots to sell to the local surf community. In its first year in business, in 1978, Ugg Imports sold 28 pairs of boots. By 2012, it had surpassed $1 billion in sales. Shearling boots went viral in the 2000s, when they were spotted on Paris Hilton, Beyonce, Kate Moss and other trendsetters, and while their popularity has fluctuated over the years, they remain one of the most popular boot styles on the market, especially among teens.
Sock Boots
While most boots have some type of utilitarian origin story, sock boots were born for fashion. Characterized for their form-hugging shape, sock boots generally have a sleek silhouette and are made of a stretchy material that fits closely around the foot and leg, such as faux leather, neoprene, nylon and knits. The style hit a major high point in the 1990s and then saw a resurgence in the mid-2010s as retro-loving millennials revived the look. Designer Demna Gvasalia’s skin-tight Knife boot, which debuted in his inaugural Balenciaga collection for fall 2016, quickly became a wardrobe essential for the fashion elite, worn by Kim Kardashian, Hailey Bieber, Rihanna and many others.
Snow Boots
Snow boots are a true marriage of style and function. Walk around Park City, Utah, or Lake Tahoe and you’ll see a wide selection of chic styles from brands such as Sorel, Ugg, Sperry, L.L. Bean, The North Face, Moon Boot, Hunter and more. Many will feature shearling or fur linings and cuffs, insulated uppers and (most important of all) waterproof and slip-resistant soles. These are high-tech shoes but with an eye for aesthetics. And that has been the case far back in human history, according to the 2022 exhibition “Art & Innovation” at the Bata Shoe Museum. It examined traditional footwear made by 40 Indigenous cultural groups in the Arctic, highlighting the artistry and ingenuity of the makers, who transformed reindeer skin and seal fur into practical works of art.
Work Boots
If you’re looking for footwear that can handle some rough usage, nothing beats work boots. Built specifically for skilled laborers, these styles utilize the most durable materials and high-tech features to ensure that workers are comfortable and safe on the job. Some important elements might be slip-resistant outsoles, waterproof linings or an electrical hazard rating (which means it uses materials like rubber that don’t conduct electricity). And many work boots have a protective toe. The traditional version is a steel toe; however, new innovations like composite toes made of things like carbon fiber offer a lighter option. Necessary features will vary depending on the type of job, so workers should consult their company’s safety administrators for guidance when selecting the proper footwear. Interestingly, many U.S. work boot companies have been in operation for over a century, including White’s Boots (founded in 1853), Weinbrenner Shoe Co. (started in 1892) and Red Wing Shoes (dating to 1905). Dr. Martens in the U.K. also traces its history to 1901, when it was making sturdy boots for factory workers and laborers — though its iconic 1460 boot is probably most associated now with rock stars.