SHARP’s Best Watches of 2024

It’s hard to envy the jobs of the world’s top watch designers, who are tasked with coming up with ever-more impressive ways to outdo each other each year. Fortunately, the creative minds behind the world’s greatest watch brands show no signs of running out of juice, as this year’s best watches ably demonstrate. From the world’s thinnest mechanical watch to spectacular gold and platinum high complications to unusual collabs, our annual rundown of the very best in the world of watches will surely give you plenty to dream about in the months ahead. Unfortunately for the designers who created them, however, it also sets the bar even higher for next year.

Piaget Polo 79

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Piaget has spent the last year reminding the world of what it does best, from ultra-thin watches to jewellery-inspired ones made from giant chunks of gold. The Polo 79, a long-awaited reboot of a best-selling collection from the Studio 54 era, looks unlike anything else by any other brand, but its appeal isn’t limited to its stunning 18k yellow gold case and bracelet. It’s also equipped with an in-house 1200P1 calibre, an automatic movement that’s just 2.35 mm thick, with an 18 k yellow gold micro-rotor. (Price on request)

Rolex Perpetual 1908

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Since it was revealed in 2023 the Rolex Perpetual 1908 has ably held down the dressier side of the Rolex lineup in white and yellow gold. This year’s addition of a new model featuring a platinum case and an ice blue dial with guilloché rice-grain motif brings colour and texture to the collection. The whole notion of a Rolex dress watch has been somewhat controversial in the past, but this edition of the 1908 offers a solid argument in its own favour. ($38,800)

Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Pink”

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There’s nothing else remotely like the bubble gum pink dial of this chronograph in the Tudor catalog (or anyone else’s for that matter), and that’s what puts it among the best pieces of the year. Thanks to partnerships with sporting events like Formula One and MLS soccer, Tudor has been making brightly coloured special editions a regular feature of its launch calendar of late. Fortunately for anyone looking to add a pop of colour to their accessories lineup, this one is a non-limited edition. ($7,050)

Grand Seiko SBGE307

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Grand Seiko inspires a level of fanaticism among its fans that can be hard to understand by the uninitiated, but if you can’t find something to love about this new GMT you might not be looking close enough. Start with the lush “lion’s mane” textured dial, then move on to the bold lines (and famed Zaratsu polishing) of the cushion-shaped case. Then, of course, there’s the ultra-accurate Spring Drive GMT movement, which combines the finesse of a mechanical movement with the accuracy and reliability of a quartz one. It’s not for everyone, perhaps, but as the saying goes, “If you know, you know.” ($14,500)

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

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Over the last few years, even some of the world’s greatest watchmakers have fallen into the trap of leaning into style over substance and prioritizing what a watch looks like over what it can do, horologically speaking. There’s nothing wrong with a bold-looking timepiece, but the Eternal Calendar stands as a reminder that when it comes to haute horlogerie, IWC is still among the best of the best. A perpetual calendar that’s programmed to be accurate for over 400 years and a moon phase display that’s accurate to a whopping 45 million years are just two of the features that make this not just one of the year’s best watches, but one of the most important IWC watches of all time. (Price on request)

Victorinox INOX Automatic

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We’ve been fans of the legendarily tough INOX since its introduction more than a decade ago, and the first major update since then carries forward everything that’s great about this watch while adding a few fun new elements. These include a selection of dials with alpine motifs (a nod to Victorinox’s commitment to producing its watches in Switzerland), a new assortment of bold colours, and a tool-free changeable rubber strap with a deployant clasp. The watch is designed, manufactured, and tested at the brand’s workshop in Delémont, Switzerland, and yes, it’ll still survive being run over by a tank. ($1,825)

Panerai Submersible E-LUX ID

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Sure, no one needs a watch that lights up using only mechanical power. But aren’t you glad Panerai made one anyway? It’s the kind of stunt that this brand is known and loved for, albeit perhaps the greatest example to date. The story of how they achieved this is just as interesting as the final product, but the gist of it is a tiny electric generator powered by the watch’s automatic winding rotor that converts kinetic energy into electricity, which then illuminates the 60 green LEDs on the dial and bezel. This feat of engineering, plus a case made from blue Ti-Ceramitech (a composite that’s lighter than steel and harder than traditional ceramic) gives this all the makings of a future classic. ($135,700)

Bulova Racer Chronograph

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The latest archival gem from Bulova offers a distinctly sporty alternative to the historic Bulova Lunar Pilot (aka the other moonwatch), and the best-value for a midcentury-inspired chronograph from any brand this year. Everything is as you’d want it to be, from the orange and black tachymeter ring and beefy pushers to the orange and white chapter ring with a subtle racing pattern. The Racer Chronograph is available in a few styles, but for maximum motorsports cred, you’ll want to opt for the perforated brown leather strap that’s reminiscent of a classic sports car’s steering wheel. ($895)

TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph

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Among a string of collectible Monaco releases from TAG Heuer, this one still manages to stand out both in looks and performance. An ultra-precise chronograph movement, a grade-5 titanium and sapphire crystal case, and a distinctly futuristic design make this one of the most covetable Monaco models of all time – and that’s saying something. (Price on request)

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC

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As the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, the newest Octo Finissimo adds yet another record to Bvlgari’s decade-long winning streak, but it’s all too easy to read those words without understanding exactly how impressive this is. Its stunning sandblasted titanium case is just 1.70 mm thick (that’s a little more than two stacked credit cards), while the bracelet is even more svelte at just 1.50 mm thick. Then there’s the movement, which did we mention is also COSC certified? The more you think about it, the more amazing it is. ($719,000)

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT

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Titanium is an increasingly popular material for luxury watches, but some executions make better use of the material than others. Chopard’s 2024 addition to its sporty Alpine Eagle lineup represents an ideal example of what happens when you get everything right. An ultra-thin case made from grade 5 titanium and measuring just 8 mm thick accentuates the ethereal lightness of the alloy, while the cutaway dial offers a view of the in-house automatic calibre. Interestingly, while this version’s dial forgoes the collection’s typical swirling texture that’s reminiscent of an eagle’s eye, it recreates that texture on the movement itself. ($34,700)

Rado True Square Open Heart Limited Edition

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Monochrome anyone? Rado continues pushing the boundaries of high-tech ceramic with this striking new two-tone release, which combines Rado’s distinctive square case with a diamond-set dial and a hypnosis-inducing black-and-white design. On its own, the sector-style dial would certainly stand out, but we appreciate how Rado leaned into the look by adding an even more eye-catching two-tone ceramic strap. It’s a textbook example of what Rado does best, and one of the most unapologetically fun creations of the year. ($4,200)

Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum with Meteorite Dial

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Twenty years ago, Louis Vuitton was one of the world’s hottest fashion brands and this year, with the release of its latest Escale model, it has secured its place as one of the world’s great watch brands, too. The seriousness of Louis Vuitton’s ambitions in the watch space is evident in this new flagship model, whose understated looks bely impressive refinement in both materials and movement. As such, the new Escale stands out with a platinum case, a polished meteorite dial, and a Caliber LFT023 self-winding mechanical movement made in-house by La Fabrique du Temps, the brand’s Swiss atelier. ($48,500)

Citizen Calibre 0210

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some pretty spectacular mechanical pieces, too. Introduced to mark Citizen’s centenary this year, the Calibre 0210 represents the pinnacle of the brand’s capabilities in mechanical movements, case finishing, and design. The iceberg-textured dial (a symbol of longevity, according to the brand) is paired with a mechanical Citizen Calibre 0210 automatic movement that’s accurate to -3 to +5 seconds per day and includes a 60-hour power reserve. Consider it the refined older sibling to the brand’s beloved Promaster and Tsuyosa models. ($9,500)

Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB463

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Whether it’s a sports watch or a dressier model, it’s hard to beat the style and substance Seiko provides via its mechanical movements and textured dials. This new addition to the Presage Classic series includes a dial inspired by the colour and texture of raw silk and a new vintage-style bracelet. Add in an automatic movement with a “weekend-proof” 72-hour power reserve, and you’ve got one of the year’s best value propositions. ($1,350)

Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic

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There are a lot of diver’s watches in the world, but most follow a fairly similar aesthetic playbook. Alpina, a Swiss brand that’s been specializing in sports watches since the early 20th century, takes an altogether more adventurous tack with the latest Seastrong Diver Automatic, which combines a 300m water-resistance rating with a bold industrial look. Thanks to aesthetic flourishes like the triangular mountain motif on the dial and a blaze orange chapter ring and matching rubber strap, it has no trouble standing out among the year’s best new dive watches. ($3,195)

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon

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The curse of creating a mega-hit is that everything else you make will tend to pale in comparison. Such is arguably the case with Jaeger-LeCoultre, which (in addition to being known for the Reverso) is one of the watchmaking world’s most respected grand maisons. In case anyone needed a reminder of Jaeger LeCoultre’s technical chops, this platinum moon phase chronograph ought to do the trick. The heart of this watch is the Calibre 391, an in-house movement that, thanks to a significant amount of engineering wizardry, can power a moon phase and chronograph with an exceptionally high degree of accuracy. It’s the kind of thing that drives collectors wild and makes this a shoo-in among the best releases of 2024.($121,000)

Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase

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Not all of the year’s best releases do something totally new. This neo-vintage (ie a new watch with a vintage look) serves up impeccable 1950s design, with the added refinement of a circular date around the titular moon phase on the dial. And unlike the 75 year-old pieces that inspired it, it comes with an automatic movement with a weekend-proof power reserve. If that weren’t enough to seal the deal, it’s also available in no less than six covetable hues, from low-key silver to shades of anthracite and copper. ($4,000)

Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture Malachite

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The latest surprise from this always-innovative Swiss brand features a stunning dial made of polished malachite, a white gold case, and an in-house movement. The Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture isn’t a new model, but this 36-piece limited edition distinguishes itself with a new case and a new movement with almost double the power reserve of the outgoing model (in addition to its eye-catching dial). Stone dials, of course, are trending hard right now, but thanks to this Swiss brand’s attention to detail and commitment to classicism, this watch has all the ingredients of a future heirloom. ($40,995)

Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow

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You can always tell when a brand gives a collaborator carte blanche to come up with something completely unexpected, and this collab with the famed Japanese contemporary artist is exactly that sort of piece. While this is not Hublot and Murakami’s first outing together, it manages to surprise and delight by combining his signature grinning flower with a sapphire crystal case and crown, a vault’s worth of rainbow-coloured gemstones, and Hublot’s first-ever central tourbillon movement. ($466,000)

Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter

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This unapologetically nerdy ana-digi throwback is just the latest reminder that Breitling makes some of the most distinctive aviation watches on the planet, but its backstory is just as appealing as its uber-functional design. An homage to Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones, who achieved the first nonstop circumnavigation of the globe in a balloon (the Breitling Orbiter 3) in 1999, this watch features an orange dial in the same shade as the airship’s capsule and a segment of the original balloon that’s visible through the open case back. ($6,200)

Cartier Privé Tortue Monopusher Chronograph

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The ultra-exclusive Cartier Privé collection is the source of some of the brand’s most stunning creations, and this hand-wound monopusher chronograph in 18k yellow gold was the most coveted among them this year. Based on one of Cartier’s earliest wristwatch designs from 1912, the Tortue (which is French for tortoise) takes its name from a unique case shape reminiscent of a tortoise shell. (Price on request)

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Limited-Edition

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Vacheron Constantin (which proudly proclaims itself the world’s oldest watchmaker) has been doubling down on its links to the world of fine art in recent years. Previous editions have included watches with works from the Louvre recreated on their spectacularly hand-painted dials, but this year’s 100-piece edition offers something more accessible (relatively speaking). With a concentric circle dial and a vintage-style leather strap, this collaboration with Ora ïto embodies the French designer’s signature concept of “Simplexity.” (Price on request)

Accutron Spaceview Evolution x Hudson Whiskey

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When a cult watch brand and a cult spirits brand get together, good things happen. That’s the special sauce (so to speak) behind this limited-edition Accutron Spaceview created in collaboration with New York’s first whiskey distillery since prohibition, Hudson Whiskey. You don’t have to be a fan of Hudson’s bourbon or rye to appreciate the bold look of the Accutron Spaceview, but aficionados will appreciate details like engraved “perlage” accents that nod to the distillery’s blending kettles and a black calfskin strap with a rose gold-tone Hudson Whiskey bottle icon on the underside. ($5,295)

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