Treasure the emotional connections to the clothes you have and style could be a whole lot more sustainable
With January sales around the corner, another flood of unwanted clothes risks drowning our wardrobes and the planet.
The average person now discards around 16kg of textile waste annually and a mountain of fabric equivalent to thousands of landfills accumulates each year.
But the EU is bringing in new laws surrounding fast fashion. More responsibility is being put on manufacturers to reduce material waste and it’s becoming more important to invest in clothes we’ll cherish.
That’s why the emotional value of fashion plays a crucial role in creating a more sustainable wardrobe.
By understanding why we keep certain garments, we can extend their lifespans and rethink sustainability. Designing fashion to be emotionally durable and less likely to be dumped will not just benefit personal connections to cherished items but also the brand’s bottom line because companies will be fined for non-compliance with regulations (for example, for the destruction of unsold textiles).
Emotional attachments could be as influential as sustainability regulations if they help us make more informed choices about what’s in our wardrobes.
After years of working in fashion, experiencing sample sales and loving the buzz of the Christmas bargain, I had my own mountain of clothes to confront during an unexpected house move last Christmas. Overwhelmed by clutter and house full of garments that didn’t “feel” good anymore I began Welcome to Our Wardrobe, a project exploring the reasons why people keep some items for longer than others.
Fashion professionals, designers, psychotherapists and everyday wearers contributed to my studies and reflected on the garments they kept the longest and shared personal stories and revelations through social media.
Each garment became a portal to an often candid story and an opportunity for self rediscovery through these hanged and folded moments. Very few items survived my own wardrobe study as most were redirected to charity shops after realising they were impulse buys or mostly ill-considered purchases that didn’t meet my needs. Most garments held strong family connections or were linked to a personal memory.
My own worn out but emotionally durable t-shirt held memories of a friendship that felt like a hug on those relentless days, reminding me my friend is always there at the end of the phone. Reflecting on these attachments shifted my own shopping habits. By focusing on meaningful purchases and connections rather than just this year’s must-have colour or trouser style, I felt better too.
Fast fashion, slow attachments
It’s not just about making clothes that last but about making clothes that matter. Jonathan Chapman, a leading professor of sustainable design, puts it simply: “We are consumers of meaning, not matter.” His theory of emotionally durable design suggests waste is not merely material problem but a symptom of a missing personal connection.
When our clothes have a deep emotional resonance they often endure. One participant reflected on a handmade gifted jumper that initially made her feel “too fat” and “too old” – she discovered she still loved it because it symbolised trust and important connections to a meaningful past relationship. Once she acknowledged her attachment to this jumper, she decided to wear it more often. That extended the garment’s life.
Otto von Busch, a Swedish professor of integrated design argues in his book The Psychopolitics of Fashion that clothing functions as a psychological tool through which people express identity, negotiate belonging and make sense of who they are.
Fashion designer and author Orsola de Castro co-founded Fashion Revolution, a fashion activism movement, in the wake of the 2013 Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh which killed more than 1,100 garment workers.
Fashion Revolution not only advocates for greater transparency in the fashion system but also endorses “radical mending” – the treasuring, reuse, rewearing and repairing of favourite items – to promote slow fashion. According to De Castro’s philosophy, the more we wear a garment, the more it becomes part of our lives.
Her call to mend and care for clothes while resisting fast fashion trends and production cycles echoes the findings of Welcome to Our Wardrobe. My research shows that inherited, classic or custom-handcrafted clothes were the most enduring pieces, not swayed by fast fashion or new sustainability strategies. Emotional attachment relies on items being present for a reason and not just a season. That can transform clothes into treasures that can be passed down through the generations.
To reduce consumption and encourage emotionally durable design, it’s important to consider how attachment between customers and clothing can increase a garment’s lifespan. Emotional durability may even underpin future legislation if adopted as a design principle rather than a post-purchase phenomenon.
Perhaps you own a top you just can’t throw away or a dress worn to a milestone moment that represents a happy memory. These garments often survive not just because they were well crafted but because they hold some emotional resonance relating to love, connection, comfort and friendship.
Reflecting on the clothes that we already treasure is the first step towards slowing down fashion. By understanding why certain pieces endure, the wardrobe begins to hold more meaning than just an unsustainable dumping ground for passing trends.
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Lee Mattocks runs Mattocks, a small sustainable leather bag company.