Exploring Japan's Niseko Tokyu Grand HIRAFU: Where Ski Dreams Come True

Skiing at Niseko Tokyu Grand HIRAFU should be on every skier's bucket list. There’s enough snow to go around, and then some.

I had the opportunity to visit during mid-December for the opening of a new lodge and unexpectedly scored multiple powder days in classic JAPOW fashion.

Keep reading for a breakdown of my trip, including tips for the best places to eat, stay, and ski in Niseko Tokyu Grand HIRAFU.

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From Neon Nights to Northern Snow

Neon lights glow in the Tokyo night, just hours before my 6:00 a.m. departure for New Chitose, Japan. Innumerable people pass by, on the streets, in the buildings, on the trains, just like glowing snowflakes float through the night sky of Niseko. 

At just one and a half hours, the flight from Narita to New Chitose was a piece of cake. My only regret was sitting on the right side of the plane. On the left, with sunny skies, you can clearly see snow-capped Mt. Fuji in all her glory. Once we landed, it was clear that we were trading in Tokyo’s mild winter for the icy shores of the North Island: Hokkaido. Greeted by blustering winds, snowy skies, and our warm host, Kei Inoue, the trip began.

Stay: AYA Niseko

Two hours of driving on snow-caked roads, flurries pebbling the windows, and a sea of birch trees lining our path, Niseko emerges from the storm. Andrew, a ski instructor on the trip from Singapore, pointed out, “Look, our driver isn’t using windshield wipers,” as we discussed the light, dry, and fluffy style of powder found here in Niseko. Back home in Colorado, I certainly use my wipers to clear the damp flurries splattering in my sightline. 

Checking into the AYA NISEKO feels like stepping into a dream: sweeping views of Mount Yotei, a piping hot private onsen, local Japanese cakes for each of us, ski valet, and, of course, slopeside access to the Niseko Tokyu Grand HIRAFU. The five of us (Alex, Hannah, Sanni, Nat (Nathaniel), and I) stayed in apartment-style accommodations together.

Now, this is THE life.

Where the Powder Grows Between the Bamboo

We woke up to shrouded skies, cotton balls of snow coming down, and the jitters and dreams of the famous Japan powder (more commonly known as “JAPOW”). This was just day one.

As Alex Hackel, an X Games Medalist and creative, said it best: “The snow here just feels like constant ambience.” It really does add to the snowglobe effect of both Niseko Tokyu Grand HIRAFU and the surrounding area. Everything looks best with a fresh coat, let alone a full-on dump (for most people), I think we can all agree.

Despite the early-season conditions, having a few bamboo shoots sticking out from the fresh coat of snow made it all the more romantic. Weaving in and around birch trees kissed by the whitest and lightest snow, it felt like time slowed down for us. With each run, there was another powder stash to be found.

Heated seats on a chairlift are a luxury I never knew I needed until riding the King Lift #3 for the first time. We lapped it as the wind whipped and the snow, somehow, continued to fall throughout the day and the night. 

From below, whoops, hollers, and yelps erupted as people took their first runs, carving fresh tracks. Japan is a relatively quiet country, but not here in Niseko. The stoke was absolutely palpable. The stoke was topped off with the cutest little ski “hats,” a very Japanese practice that saves the gondola windows from too many scratches. 

It felt like we entered a real-life snow globe, a ski world.

Lunch at 813 Meters & Aprés Below Yotei

While up at NEST813 for their grand opening, sipping a Sapporo and enjoying a King Crab lasagna, Mount Yotei appeared from the mist. Clouds rolling past, the sun peeked in and out as her peak began to appear. Everyone rushed to the window, snapping photos excitedly. Standing inside the warm restaurant at 813 meters, aptly named, it was the perfect lunch break before an afternoon shred.

After lunch, we ripped it down, Super, a natural pipe-style run filled with snow, followed by Kokutai, a steep run down the central part of the mountain. The trees off of Parallel, near the 2-chair Swinging Monkey, held some of the best snow all morning long. 

Skiing in Japan is unique, but après traditions travel well. While having an Air Borne IPA at the brand new aprés spot, ALPEN NODE, a few of us noticed the snowfall picking up out the windows overlooking the slopes. So we said “kampai,” or “cheers” in Japanese, but it is more directly translated to “drying up the glass,” we learned from Satoshi, a Niseko local with 13 years of experience working with The Luxe Nomad and Niseko Tourism. 

Of course, we had to head back out for the iconic Niseko night skiing.

Hannah, Sanni, and I sat on the lift watching as the snowflakes floated past in perfect light. Oogling, the contrast between the blackened skies and the gleaming snowfall felt otherworldly.

Afterwards, we dropped our skis off at AYA NISEKO, and were excited to warm up. The three of us soaked in the onsen, nearly scalding in the mineral waters. The sky continued to produce heaps of the famous JAPOW. The snow disintegrated in the heat and melted down our wet skin.

Never Trust the Forecast

Remi, our talented local photographer and guide, told me to “never trust the forecast.” In Niseko, Remi said it's hard to get down about early-season or low tide conditions because it’s the “Powder Capital of the World.” So, it will probably still snow, and it did.

For example, one inch of snow was predicted to fall on Tuesday, but we were pleasantly surprised to see that it had actually snowed more like eight or ten inches.

This is the magic of Niseko at play.

In just a few hours of morning skiing, backflips had been sent, face shots of both powder and bamboo had been had, and the boot-packs up powder stashes were sweaty, but worth it for one more send or turn. 

Powder filled in our tracks overnight, even in the early season, allowing us to flip and flop into buckets of it. The faucet never seems to turn off here.

We stopped by AYA Kitchen and got servings of hot miso ramen for lunch before topping off the afternoon with a soak in the onsen to soothe our muscles and recharge for another day on the slopes.

Name a better way to spend a day skiing. I’ll wait…

Bluebird Mount Yotei

Majestic Mount Yotei parted between the clouds just as I excitedly jumped up from my bed, staying at The Maples Niseko. Throwing on snow boots, I tromped around as the sky glowed in varying shades of pastel pink and a warming, honey-like yellow. No one was up yet, but the cats roamed the piste, leaving fresh corduroy behind.

Getting lucky with one last weather window before leaving, Nat and I headed out early to catch some rays. Mount Yotei stared right back at us as we ripped down a mix of tree runs, groomed corduroy, and bumps.  

A sign of early season, as mentioned, is the bamboo shoots protruding from the snow. I noticed that many of the local children would wedge a piece of bamboo between the goggle band at the back of their helmets. Obviously, I had to join in on this adorable sight and throw a shoot across the back of my head with my blue bow.

Continuously searching for cold, powdered snow, we lapped on King Lift #3, for its ease, speed, and warmth, shooting off the right cat track and down the Jumbo trees, as well as Rinkan, which has not baked in the sun just yet. 

We cut across the mountain to grab Hokkaido potato mochi at Ace Hill Café and a wagyu cutlet. 

Mount Yotei beckoned from the horizon, but I’ll have to save that tour for my next trip to Niseko Tokyu Grand HIRAFU.

Beyond the Slopes: Niseko’s Food Scene

One of the most unique parts about Niseko, compared to other ski towns I’ve visited, is its foodie scene. Around every corner, food trucks serve everything from sushi, udon, takoyaki, and ramen to quesadillas, curries, and Hokkaido ice cream. Walking under the magical snowfall, we grabbed a to-go yakisoba from Houzenji Sanpei right outside of ALPEN NODE.

Upscale restaurants are everywhere, and reservations are essential in peak season.

A favorite izakaya (a casual Japanese bar), Kougetsu, is a little “hole-in-the-wall” with cozy tatami mat seats and high-tops. The sashimi, fried tofu miso soup, and fried squid tentacles were all amazing. We washed it down with a local Niseko sake. A stop at the “secret” refrigerator-door bar, Bar Gyu, is also mandatory. The interior vibes are top-tier, feeling like a listening bar with curated vinyl and a super intimate atmosphere.

Add the so-called “Best Ice Cream in Japan” from a neighboring food truck, and the post-ski caloric deficit is officially handled.

For a final splurge, Masonry serves a refined fixed menu even for two ski bums. Highlights included Akkeshi oysters, Hokkaido cod with soy butter so smooth it melts on your tongue, and hamachi sashimi paired with red chili paste. If a full dinner feels like too much, cocktails at the bar are just as worth it. Try the Dirty Pirate with green tea and yuzu, or the Goma with sesame tequila - both are light, refreshing, and highly recommended.

Back at New Chitose Airport, さっぽろ魚 (Sapporo Fish)ー is the perfect made-to-order sushi counter. It’s casual, quick, and delicious. The lean tuna was a perfect portion, but the salmon pieces were so buttery I could have eaten them for the rest of my days.

On your way in or out, grab souvenirs or essentials at Muji to Go, UNIQLO, or many other niche shops, too.

In Conclusion

What makes Niseko so special is its people, the approachability in terms of language, its wonderful terrain, the accessibility, and its culture through the food.

A trip to ski in Japan should be on everyone’s bucket list, but not one you wait for.

Niseko Tokyu Grand HIRAFU is the place. Send it.